Encantada in American Visionary Arts Museum serving tasty gluten-free and vegetarian dishes
I am generally a creature, well I prefer the word person, of habit. If I like something, a restaurant for example, I’ll go back and go back and go back.
Eventually friends will say, you know Eddie there are other restaurants in town. So not too long ago I was thrilled to receive an invitation to visit a new restaurant and to then report on it, which is what I’m doing now.
Actually when I went there it wasn’t even officially open. I was there in what is called friends and family days. This is where restaurants invite friends and family to dine there and that gives the staff a chance to work out any problems. Not all restaurants do this, but they probably should. It might eliminate problems when they open to the public.
The restaurant is called Encantada (meaning Enchanted) and it is located on the top floor of the very eclectic American Visionary Arts Museum, 800 Key Highway, basically just past the Science Center if you’re approaching from President Street. It replaces Mr. Rain’s Fun House, which seemed like a good idea at the time. Encantada is owned by Robbin Hass, who also knows the two Birrotecas (Bel Air, Hampden) and Nickel Tap in Mount Washington.
It is open for dinner only Tuesday through Sunday, but plans are to have it open for lunch by the 3rd or 4th week in July. There’s seating for about 115 counting inside and outside. By the way, I loved the outdoor patio. On warm evenings or afternoons for that matter it provides open space and great views of Federal Hill, the Ritz and Harborview. Also you can watch a fascinating mobile as it spins in the wind.
The restaurants interior was designed by the always interesting Rebecca Hoffberger, who runs the museum. It is a scene filled with colors and design.
My eyes were drawn to the bar stools, each one with a different covering. Until lunch service begins you would enter Key Highway until 6 p.m., after six use the Covington Street entrance. Happy Hour runs from 5 to 7 weekdays. And don’t fret about parking, there’s plenty of street parking on Key Highway or you can valet. The chef is Melanie Molinaro who opened two of the other restaurants in the company.
I discovered from Chris, the General Manager, the servers had to pass a 30 question written test before they could serve customers. Those that didn’t pass, had to train by watching the other servers. I like that approach. It certainly would improve service at restaurants. These days, in some places, service seems to be an archaic word.
Manager Lindsey described the menu as eclectic vegan and Chris told me it is veggie centric. Whatever you want to call it, it is different from most restaurants I’ve been in. And believe me, I’ve been in many. The menu I saw was divided into six categories. And they are tid bits, raw, back to your roots, leafy things, a walk in the woods and in the fields. I basically chose one item from each. I began with a dish of olives in tid bits, then watermelon in raw, then cauliflower in back to your roots, to lacianto kale in leafy things, to portabello in a walk in the woods and ended with wagyu in in the fields.
Many of the items on the menu, like razor clam ceviche in back to your roots, brassicas in leafy things and quickles in tid bits were new to me.
There are gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options. The chef, Melanie Molinaro, told me soon to be added to the menu will be sea urchins. Keep in mind all items come kind of tapas style, smaller portions. Many of them are brought to the table to be shared. For a guy in a rut like I basically am, when it comes to ordering food, the new choices were fun for me to discover. Carry out is available and soon catering will be offered.
The folks who live nearby should be thrilled to have this new place in their neighborhood. I do wish them luck in what is a tough business. For reservations go to open table dot com, encantadbaltimore dot com or call 410-752-1000.
And one other thing, I’m beginning to sound like Columbo, before you leave be sure to stop in the restroom of your choice. The men’s are filled with art and funny newspaper clippings. One headline read, ‘Lady was still alive hours before she died’. Gee I hope so. I’m told the same is true in the ladies.
Eddie Applefeld is a Baltimore native and a graduate of Towson University. He has been in the broadcasting profession for over 30 years. Currently he is the Promotions Director of WCBM radio. Before that, he was part of the Rouse & Company show on WQSR, host of a cable TV show called Dining Out and adjunct instructor at Towson.
His past accomplishments include being named a finalist in Baltimore Tourism’s Employee of the Year Program and winner of Toastmaster’s Speaker of the Year contest. He was also twice a heartthrob for the American Heart Association’s gala fund raiser.