They say timing is everything; well mine might just be a bit off sync in my review of the newly renovated B & O American Brasserie in the Hotel Monaco. Off sync or on sync, as I sit to write my take on a recent meal, The Baltimore Sun food reviewer Suzanne Loudermilk just published her review of the B & O American Brasserie and I concur with her 4 stars.
I gladly accepted the invitation via the B & O American Brasserie to experience their new fall menu, meet their newly, titled executive Chef Scott Hines (former sous chef under Chef Mike Ransom) and check out the newly appointed mezzanine dining room which is more contemporary than previous lush, leather banquettes.
Menu wise, the selection was curated to be a bit smaller. Chef Hines, “We rather do fewer dishes exceptionally well, “and that they were. Well constructed and thought out for flavor, texture and their seasonality.
My guest and I started with an oxtail marmalade: shredded oxtail jam in a small mason jar topped with pickled shallot, peppercress sprouts and a jar of bone marrow schmaltz to smear on the accompanying ciabatta. We also shared the cider braised pork cheeks, fork tender topping polenta mousse with cardamom pickled carrots and hard cider au jus.
B & O American Brasserie is known for their mixologists and creating seasonal flavors in glass to pair with the chef’s menu: The Rock Wall (Donaji Extra Anjeo Mezcal, Smith & Cross Rum, Apple Cider, Lemon and Spiced Turbinado Syrup) and the Earthshaker (St. George Vodka, Amaretto, Solera Sherry, Lemon and Egg White) were our choices from the Autumn listing of craft cocktails.
There definitely is a focus to be creative for the vegetarians with entrée dish – Curried Acorn Squash with French lentils, raisins, confit mushroom and kale crisp. Since neither of us were vegetarian, we choose the Lamb Noisette on a bed of fregola, merguez, feta and escarole and the House Made Pappardella with generous portions of tender veal breast, pecorino pepato, orange marjoram gremolata. There wasn’t anything left on either plate.
Dessert, we went with the house made lemon bar, the grown up version, well executed with the feuilletine white chocolate crunch, berry gelee, toasted meringue and vanilla ice cream topped with lemon brittle.
B & O American Brasserie will be open Xmas Day. Check with them for the hours, menu and pricing.
B & O American Brasserie – 2 North Charles Street – Baltimore MD 21201 443 692-6172 www.bandorestaurant.com Discounted valet parking for two hours Twitter & Instagram @bandobrasserie